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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.